​Development Stages of Trout - An Overview
Embryo Stage
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Fertilized trout eggs have black eyes and a central line that show
healthy development. All the eggs will hatch over a 5-7 day
period from the time the first one hatches.
Hatching usually starts within a week of egg arrival.

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The outer shell of the eggs must remain translucent. Uniform cloudiness can be okay. Some eggs will not hatch properly. Any fully opaque eggs or those with white or opaque spots will not develop and should be removed when seen (inspect them twice a day if possible). A turkey baster works well for that task. The white spots are a fungus that spreads very rapidly. Be sure to check the breeder basket before leaving school on Friday or the last day of the school week.
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The leftover shells float to the top of the tank or the breeder box. Use the small aquarium net or turkey baster to remove them. Fish enzymes will break down any remaining shells and create foam. This is normal. Scrubbing the sides of the tank will loosen the foam. During this phase, a jelly-like fungal growth may appear. Check for it around the inside tank surfaces. Also check for fungal growth on the surfaces of the breeder box. If you find any, wipe or scrape the surfaces with a clean sponge or brush to loosen and send this growth through the tank filtration system.
Alevin Stage (from hatching to 4-8 weeks, depending on water temperature)

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When the embryos hatch, they have large yolk sacs that serve as their food source.
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Look for any odd-looking trout (two-headed, three-headed, unusual heart development, etc. These odd trout usually don’t survive and illustrate the principle of survival of the fittest.
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Alevin can survive in a Petri dish for short periods and can be observed closely under a microscope or by using a hand lens.
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Tank maintenance is simpler when the alevin are in the breeder box. Actually, the longer the alevin can stay in the breeder basket, the longer these hatchlings have time to learn to swim to the surface to feed.
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Swim Up Stage (AKA “First Feed”) (4-6 weeks)
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The timing of “first-feed” is critical in young trout. Every year the single greatest cause of trout mortality occurs when teachers and their students “miss” the swim-up stage. The signs of swim-up are subtle, and especially teachers new to raising trout may have difficulty noticing them. A further problem is that the swim-up period doesn’t last long, perhaps only three or four days; and, if you don’t know when this is going to take place or happen to be away from your tank when it does, you can miss it entirely.
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Initially, alevin will “swim up” to inflate their air bladders—independent of the need for food. It is important to delay first-feed until the majority of fish have only a small slit of yolk visible. Research indicates that fish still have considerable yolk reserves when only a slit is present. Feeding too early is not advantageous to the fish and only creates a fouled tank environment. If you are in doubt, place a small number of fry in a clear glass beaker/jar to examine the ventral surface (belly) from below. Refer to Appendix G for photographs.
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Here’s a link to a YouTube video about the swim-up stage that may also be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VfuBYoeb8g.
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We have provided a spreadsheet with built-in formulas to help you either predict or control when swim-up occurs.
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As yolk sacs disappear, some trout will start swimming to the top of the tank. According to one hatchery manager: “It’s my experience that small percentages of fish will begin to swim up continuously over a period of 3-5 days. I begin to supplement feeding when approximately 25% are up and gradually increase feed amount as the percentage increases. When you begin feeding, only spread a minuscule amount of the food near any swimming trout.”
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When you’re beginning to suspect that the alevin may be ready to swim up, raise the water temperature to 52 to 55 degrees and expose the tank to light for at least half an hour a couple of times a day. See if this stimulates their swim-up behavior.
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Once all fry are feeding eagerly, keep them in the breeder basket for at least two more weeks.
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Two or three weeks after all the fry have been feeding, reposition the basket so that one side is under the surface of the water. This will allow the more adventurous fry to swim out into the main tank.
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After the vast majority of fish have left the comforts of the breeder basket, you may unhook the basket and lower it gently to the bottom of the tank.
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If your water temperature is 40 degrees F or more, add Nite-Out II to your tank as often as once a week.
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Once all the fish have left the breeder basket, you can remove it from the tank. At this time, you can also remove the front foam insulation during the school day.
Fry Stage

​Some trout never learn to feed and will die. These non-feeding fish are called “pinheads” (big heads, skinny bodies). These trout should be removed. They will not develop. Most TIC classrooms see a mortality spike due to pinheads. It is quite normal.
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When a fry grows to 2 inches it becomes a fingerling. Larger fingerlings will develop dark vertical stripes known as parr marks that serve as camouflage. At this stage they are called parr.
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Cannibalism can and does occur. The big fish will eat smaller fish. If cannibalism becomes an issue, feed more often to assuage hunger. Large predatory fish can be separated and given “time out” by placing them back in the breeder basket.
Parr Stage
